We are here in California, on a journey to discover the best
restaurants this state has to offer. 5 days, 5 restaurants. Each with Michelin stars. So far, we’ve been to Atelier Crenn,
where we saw a pastry chef save the day. Now, we take you to the
next restaurant on our list. For that, we hit the road for Healdsburg. It’s tucked between lush valleys and surrounded by over 60 wineries in
the heart of the Sonoma wine country. With just under a hundred thousand people, Healdsburg has all the charm of a small town. Knock knock, and open sesame. We are greeted with our first smile of the day. Kelly gives us our second, and even offers to shoot video for us if we want. Amazing service out of the gate. The interior is beautiful and
brings me back to my trip to Japan. Passing the ultra-modern kitchen,
we see the team hard at work. And when we arrive at the
table, we are met by this. Our first bites, presented beautifully. They didn’t wait long to impress us.
I’ve never seen a table setting like this. Next, our server presents the menu. In the middle of it, he asks if
we want sparkling or still water. Then, he keeps going. A few seconds later, more
servers arrive with our water. How did he do it? I have a guess. Behind his back, he gives a signal. Like a catcherr in baseball
flashing a sign to his pincher. I gotcha. When I call him out, he playfully
has no idea what I’m talking about. Like a magician who refuses to reveal a secret. We just barely sat down. And already, I’m having fun. If this is the level of
attention they put on the water, I can’t wait to see what’s in store for us.
Our first course is made up of 10. Yes, 10 bites. Chawanmushi custard topped with uni Bluefin tuna tartar with Japanese mustard Amberjack with kohlrabi in a nuri vinaigrette Farmed celtuce ribbons Needlenose fish Diver scallop Golden sesame tofu Kushi oyster with rhubarb Abalone with orange and sorrel And Baby firefly squid from Tokyo The server explains that we
can eat in any order we wish and to remember this is only the course number 1. When we are finished here, there will be 9 more. There is so much work put into these little bites. The creativity and the flavors make it
a showcase of top-tier cooking skills. If these were served one
after the other as a menu, it would already be a fantastic restaurant. But thankfully, they have
even more in store for us. The sommelier called Jackson arrives next. He is young but incredibly confident
and enthusiastic about the drinks. At the same time, very professional. He kicks things off on a high
note with 2013 Dom Perignon. It’s a light and refreshing blend of
50% chardonnay and 50% pinot noir. We hear all about the alcohol-free pairing.
It starts off citrusy and then becomes
more savory with Japanese elements. Everything is made from
scratch by the culinary team. It’s funny that some days ago in Switzerland we
cheered with champagne for my godson’s birthday, but here, he has to wait 3 more years,
so he ordered this alcohol-free pairing. For me, it’s a great pitch, but I am fine with wine. There are three tiers of wine pairings, and I choose the Unforgettable Wine Pairing for 1500 dollars or 1400 euro. It’s an all-star wine-up full of heavy hitters. First on the list is another Dom Perignon. This time, a P2 from 2004.
He describes it beautifully. I couldn't have said it better myself. It’s followed up by a Keller
2021 Morstein riesling. The music is an interesting choice. It’s instrumental only, but not the kind you hear in a
department store or when you’re on hold. It’s understated and creates
a pleasant atmosphere. I have some good news. Soon, we will be adding more than just
restaurant reviews to this channel.
If you want to see what happens inside
a champagne house, and a caviar company, make sure you hit that subscribe button
right now and check out our Instagram. And you will be sure to
catch all of the excitement. Our next course features different
preparations of cherries. Including soft, fermented cherries
from last season, cherry blossoms And cherry leaves. Every part of the cherry
except for the tree itself. What a presentation. They gave us chopsticks for this dish,
and clearly take inspiration from Japan, But they are careful not to imitate but
capture the essence of the country very well.
Our next wine is a 2018
Corton Charlemagne grand cru. It’s one of the most historic
vineyards for chardonnay, and was named after the Emperor Charlemagne. It is said that the Emperor ordered the
planting of white grapes on the hill of Corton in the 8th century. Because of its prestige and limited production, Corton-Charlemagne wines are
sought after by collectors and wine enthusiasts around the world. Next we have a crab and dashi
dish that showcases the local pea. Sugar snap peas, Pea tofu Pea shoots, Pea blossoms, and pea tendrils.. It’s like the movie Forrest Gump when
Bubba lists all the ways to prepare shrimp. It’s served with a fried tofu simmered
in dashi supporting a crab salad. Thank God, I saved some P2 The P2 paired exceptionally well with this dish. Here’s why. It complements the umami extremely well and
creates a nice harmony with the flavors. Our next wine is a 2020 L’Hermitage blanc. It’s from Jean Louis Chave, also
known as the Pope of Hermitage. One of the nicest wines from the Rhone Valley.
I’m excited to try it with the next course. So far, nothing but good things to say. The service is impeccable. and servers are energetic,
attentive, and responsive. Green and white asparagus with caviar is next With Tempura fried fava bean in a sabayon sauce. The sabayon reminded me of a
Kinobi gin we had in Kyoto. I fell in love with this dish. Authentic flavors and probably
the best asparagus I’ve ever had. This is the next drink in
the alcohol-free pairing.
It’s a work of art in liquid form. Everything you see in the presentation is real. My next drink is from Japanese producer Heiwa. This is a super premium sake with
hints of melon and ripe pear. Heiwa has 500 years of brewing tradition and makes
only a few hundred bottles of this one each year. Next is a black cod smoked on wood chips
with green garlic miso and a cream dashi. We have something to refresh
the palette before moving on to the richer, fuller dishes in the program. This is a rhubarb sorbet
blended with a fina herb sorbet. This is resting on 3 preparations of rhubarb served with toasted rice,
herb granita and ginger ice.
It’s a complex dish with many
different textures and temperatures. Rosemary really punches
through the rhubarb flavors. Ultra fresh and tasty. Coming up is wagyu, but first we need a wine. You’ve seen me compare wines on
this channel, but never meat. Here we have the rare chance to
compare two cuts of Miyazaki wagyu. One from a local ranch and
one imported from Japan. Knight’s Valley wagyu is nearby and
gives Single Thread choice selection. Today we are trying the deckle,
the cut just above the ribeye. It’s served with sunchokes, bokchoy, kale
and raisinated prunes with aged balsamic. I love the elegance and refinement of the kitchen. They are clearly playing on Master mode.
The vegetables are perfect. The jus is fantastic, the quality
of the meat is unquestionable. TOP DISH! In fine dining restaurants, it’s important
that guests always have water in their glasses. It is the one thing that is
constantly being topped up. Here, the water glasses are not transparent, making it a challenge for the service
team to see when you need more. But it doesn't seem to hinder them at all. and I have not been without
water for even a minute. The service here is so good, and so
well thought out, nothing can stop it. It’s a sophisticated hospitality
machine, infused with soul. Our next wine is a 2009 Chataneuf
du Pape from the Rhone Valley. This is by leading producer Chateau Rayas and the 2009 is one of their best vintages. It’s paired with our final
savory course of the day. Mushroom soup.
The base is a consomme made with local mushrooms. With rice prepared Singaporean style using
duck and chicken fat with ginger and scallion. Duck meatballs are also added. And it’s finished with a lemon zest. In traditional Japanese cuisine, it
is common to end a meal with soup. It helps to cleanse the palate and give
a light, comforting end to the meal. And shows the importance of balance
and harmony in Japanese cuisine. With the main courses done, it’s time for a walk. That means it’s time for a kitchen tour. Here we get to know the history,
the philosophy and the chef’s story. The restaurant opened in 2016 along
with guest rooms, a winery and a farm. Running through everything is one philosophy
that connects agriculture to hospitality. A single thread, if you will. The goal is to create a
holistic culinary experience that celebrates the connection between
food, community, and the natural world.
It’s something owners Kyle and Katina Connaughton
learned from years of living in Hokkaido, and it’s the reason Japanese cuisine
plays such a big part in the menu. Chef Kyle’s love for Japanese culture
started when he was 9 years old. When his dad often went to Japan for business,
sometimes bringing young Kyle with him. It inspired him, and Chef Kyle
began his culinary career in L.A. with an apprenticeship at one of the
oldest Japanese restaurants in the city. He continued training in both pastry
and savory at local restaurants including Spago Beverly Hills and
The Dining Room at Ritz Carlton.
Then, he moved to Japan, where he cooked for the famous chef Michel Bras as well as traditional Japanese restaurants. In 2006, he joined Heston Blumenthal to become the Head Chef of Research and
Development for the Fat Duck Experimental Kitchen. His wife Katina has been by his
side since they met at age 15. She heads the farming operation with
techniques she learned in Hokkaido. She oversees the 24 acre property including the
greenhouses, heirloom orchards and bee hives. In 2018, the restaurant was
awarded two Michelin stars In 2019 came the third, but to get there, Single Thread
had to overcome many obstacles.
The whole region was choked by
wildfires in 2018 that kept people away, and just as the fires were
extinguished, the pandemic hit. After restrictions were lifted, the
restaurant was hit with a kitchen fire and they were forced to close
for two and a half months. Above the restaurant are 5 luxury
rooms which have also won awards. In April 2024, the MICHELIN Guide
introduced a brand new category. The Michelin key. While the Michelin star recognizes
the best restaurants in the world, the Michelin key does the same for hotels.
One key means ‘a very special stay’, two is an exceptional stay, and three is reserved for
those that are extraordinary. With dessert on the way, I take a
look at the wine list just for fun. Look at all that Romanee Conti. This selection is crazy. Oh my god. Before dessert, we have a drink service. Jackson struggles but makes a joke before we can. This kid is like a breath of
fresh air with the way he speaks. I really admire this dedication and talent. It's crazy to see how far
this 24 year old guy has come. Especially when you think that he could have only started tasting
wines legally just a few years ago. The trust they have in him is inspiring.
He also has a gift for us that
is not part of the pairing. A glass of Hungarian Tokaji Aszú. We are asked to take a cup for a
special drink from Japan made in-house. It’s called amazake. It’s a traditional sweet drink
made from fermented rice. Desserts are served in two courses. This is amazake foam with green tea cake. And a Japanese cookie filled
with rice pudding and lemon. Not too sweet, very light and delicious. Petit fours are the last to arrive. Here we have steamed Japanese cheesecake Matcha with wild huckleberry Caramelized barley custard with kumquat And eggs made with roasted chocolate. Our total for today is just
under 3000 dollars or 2700 euro. Now for my final thoughts: Outstanding attention to
detail from the service team.
A sommelier that I will remember for a long time. The menu was fantastic from start to finish, with beautiful presentations, superb
flavors, tradition and creativity. All in all, I had a wonderful
time here at Single Thread. In the next episode of Alexander the Guest, Part 3 of our series on the best of California See you then!.